Baekdu Mountain North vs West Slope: Which Should You Pick?

North, West and South: the big picture

On the Chinese side, routes up Changbai Mountain (Baekdusan) are usually described as the North, West and South Slopes. Many visitors to Yanji set aside a day for the mountain and pick either the North or the West Slope.

The South Slope is the closest to Heaven Lake and has the Yalu River Grand Canyon, but it usually opens only in the summer season and may close temporarily for weather or road repairs. This article focuses on the North and West Slopes, which are easier to plan around.

Whichever route you choose, mountain weather changes fast: Heaven Lake is only visible on clear days and is never guaranteed. Keep that in mind and you'll be less disappointed.

North Slope: the best-equipped route

The North Slope is the best-equipped route. Scenic-area shuttles take you up to Heaven Lake, a large waterfall, hot-spring areas, Green Abyss Pool and the Underground Forest.

With a range of sights in one area, it suits first-time visitors and anyone who would rather see a bit of everything than do a lot of climbing. Check tickets, shuttle fares and how the shuttles run in the official notice.

The gateway to the North Scenic Area is Chibei District. If you want to be on the mountain early, you can stay a night there.

West Slope: climb the steps for a head-on view

On the West Slope you climb 1,442 steps for a wide, level view of Heaven Lake. It takes effort, but it is popular with people who want to take in the whole lake.

The West Slope also has the Jinjiang Grand Canyon, and alpine flower gardens bloom in July and August, so a summer visit can combine the lake with wildflowers.

In winter, the West Slope summit road and steps can close due to snow. Check operations and fees in the official notice.

How to choose

There's no single right answer. Choose based on what you want to see, your fitness and the season.

• A variety of sights with less climbing: North Slope (shuttles, waterfall, hot-spring areas, Green Abyss Pool, Underground Forest)
• A wide, head-on view of Heaven Lake: West Slope (1,442 steps)
• Summer flowers and a canyon: West Slope (alpine flower gardens in July-August, Jinjiang Grand Canyon)
• An early start on the mountain: stay a night in Chibei District on the North Slope side
• Winter visits: the West Slope summit road and steps can close due to snow
• South Slope: closest to the lake, but usually open only in summer
• Tickets, shuttles, opening hours and moving between slopes: check the official notice

Getting there from Yanji

High-speed trains run from Yanji West Station via Antu West and Dunhua to Changbaishan Station. Buy tickets under your passport name on the official China Railway 12306 website or app, or at station windows.

A typical plan is an early train from Yanji West to Changbaishan Station, a visit to the North or West Slope, then an evening train back or a night near the mountain. Staying around Yanji West Station makes early trains easier.

How you get from Changbaishan Station to each slope's entrance, how long it takes, and whether you can do both slopes in one day can vary, so check the official notice before you go. For budgeting, a mid-range day including a city hotel, restaurants and Changbai Mountain tickets and shuttles is about 600-900 CNY per person.

• Yanji travel guide →

When to go

To include Changbai Mountain, summer to early autumn is best. Heaven Lake is frozen for about seven months of the year and thaws in early summer.

Winters are long and very cold (freezing period November-March), so avoid them unless snow is the goal. National Day week (around October 1) and the summer peak are very crowded, so check train tickets early if you're travelling then.

Rules to follow on the mountain

Changbai Mountain straddles the border between China and North Korea. Follow on-site rules and border-area signs, and keep to permitted trails. South Korean travelers should note the Yanji area is under Korean MOFA travel advisory Level 1 (exercise caution); check your own government's advice too.

Korea's Consulate General in Shenyang warns that weather around Heaven Lake changes very sharply and phone signal often drops. Agree on how to stay in touch with your group, and carry a jacket even in summer.

• Don't approach the border or photograph military or restricted zones, and check whether photography is allowed first
• Avoid posing with national flags, banners or placards; visitors have been questioned by police or stopped by staff
• Bus accidents have occurred in the tourist season, so always wear a seatbelt
• In China, dial 110 for police, 120 for ambulance and 122 for traffic accidents
• Entry conditions can change; check official Chinese government or embassy information

FAQ

Related reading

Comparison · ChinaChina's Cities Compared: Beijing, Shanghai or Qingdao?Beijing for history, Shanghai for skylines, old lanes and food, or seaside Qingdao for…TipsTravel Insurance Checklist: Coverage That Matters, Exclusions and How to ClaimDo you need travel insurance? What coverage matters most, how to read the exclusions,…ComparisoneSIM vs Pocket Wi-Fi vs Roaming vs Local SIM: Which Travel Data Option Wins?Compare the four ways to get mobile data abroad by cost, setup and trade-offs, plus how…

All articles →